The UKCG Single Pitch guide assessment is aimed at people who want to guide in non technical canyons up-to grade 3A.s
It is also aimed to allow Pro guides to use SP guides as competent seconds.
This Guide assessment is taken over 2 days.
Day 1 would be spent doing personal skills in a canyon or on a crag and lectures.
Day 2 the guide would be expected to guide a group through a canyon within this remit and show personal skills for the other half in this environment.
Rope and Equipment Care:
• Understand and apply good rope care practices
• Coil rope; alpine coil, canyon coil
• Stuff and use rope bag
• Understand and apply good equipment care practices
• Figure eight knot; on a bight, rethreaded
• Tape Knot in webbing
• Create prusik loop with cord using double fisherman.
• Connect two load-bearing ropes for rappelling (e.g. double fisherman bend, rethreaded figure eight, square fisherman bend, overhand knot)
• Bowline knot; double bowline, bowline on a coil
• Clove hitch
• Larks foot
• Münter hitch; improvised lower, belay or rappel
• Mule hitch; load releasing
• Safety back-up knot (e.g. overhand, fisherman)
• In-line loop (e.g. butterfly knot, directional figure eight)
• Friction hitches (e.g. prusik, klemheist, bachman, hedden)
• Understand and apply good principles of anchor location;
• DEAR (Dry, Efficient, Accessible, Rope Retrieval)
• Understand and apply good principles of anchor construction; EARNEST (Equalized, Angle, Redundant, No Extension, Solid, Timely)
• Evaluate and rig single-point natural anchors
• Evaluate and rig multi-point natural anchors
• Evaluate and rig existing fixed artificial anchors
• Sequence marginal anchor
• Use meat anchors
• Set up and use blocked rope system (e.g. carabiner block)
• Set up and use releasable rope system (aka contingency anchor)
• Lower a person
• Set up and use top-rope belay system
• Set up and use system to extend tie-in point for top-rope belay system (e.g. Australian system with alpine butterfly)
• Set up and use edge protection
• Set up and use system to change rope abrasion point (e.g. double-rope münter/mule, Shunt, Gri-Gri)
• Rig system to isolate rope strands (e.g. stone knot)
Climbing, Belaying, Hand Lines:
• Spot a climber, down-climber
• Belay a climber, down-climber
• Set up and use retrievable hand lines
• Rappel; control speed, brake
• Rig rappelling device for correct friction on 8mm to 11 mm ropes, single and double strand
• Add friction while rappelling
• Lock off while rappelling using leg wrap
• Lock off rappel device while rappelling
• Provide bottom belay for rappeller
• Understand pros and cons of using self-belay (e.g. auto-block); rig and use
Swimming, Jumping, Sliding:
• Swim with gear (minimum 20 yards)
• Jumping; identify hazards, outside boil line, body position
• Water slides; body position
• Read contour lines on topographic map;
• identify terrain features (hills, saddles, ridges, drainages),
• determine relative steepness of grade,
• identify potential high ground and escape routes
• Identifying relative size of watershed using topo map
• Orient map with compass and terrain
• Evaluate weather forecast; temperature, relative humidity, high/low pressure systems, warm front vs cold front
• Differentiate between cloud types; cumulus, stratus
• Describe variables that contribute to flash flood risk
• Describe flash flood warning signs
• Describe appropriate responses to an impending flash flood
• Understand UKCG Canyon Rating System
• Possess suitable gear for canyons rated up to 3B
Release a stuck abseiled from a relsable blocked line.
- Manage a casualty from the water to safety and action emerceny procedures.
- Understand and use a cut away rescue.
ADDITIONAL SKILLS ASSESSED – Written test, Group management, Risk Management, Route finding, Emergency Procedures.
Technical Canyon course, Swift water canyon or swift water rescue course
A Canyon log book with at least 10 personal canyons, 2 of which should be rated grade 3/4 and 20 guide days.